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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.